San Sebastián, officially Donostia San Sebastián, is a jewel of Spain’s Basque Country. Nestled along the Bay of Biscay, it is just 12 miles from the French–Spanish border, making it an easy jumping-off point for exploring both countries. Famous for its beaches, food, and cultural life, San Sebastián consistently ranks as one of Europe’s most charming small cities.
Looking out towards the Bay of La Concha beach
A Glimpse of History
The city began as a Roman settlement before passing through the control of various monarchs and rulers. During the 16th century, under Philip II of Spain, it became notorious as a staging port for pirates. San Sebastián also endured invasions, fires, and sieges over the centuries, which reshaped much of its architecture. Today, however, it is celebrated not for piracy but for its blend of culture, cuisine, and seaside charm.
Beaches and Surfing
The coastline is central to San Sebastián’s identity:
La Concha Beach
Arguably one of the most photographed beaches in Europe, La Concha is a sweeping crescent of golden sand, framed by elegant Belle Époque architecture. In the centre of the bay lies Isla de Santa Clara, a small island you can reach by boat in summer. The promenade, lined with ornate white railings and lampposts, is perfect for an evening stroll as the sea air cools.
La Concha beach and harbor in the foreground
Zurriola Beach
Located across the Urumea River in the Gros neighbourhood, Zurriola is the heart of the city’s surf culture. The waves here are larger and more consistent, drawing surfers from around the world. Even if you don’t surf, it’s a brilliant spot to grab a coffee, watch the action, and enjoy sunset views.
Morning waves at Zurriola Beach.
Ondarreta Beach
Less famous than La Concha but favoured by families, Ondarreta is smaller and quieter. At its western end lies Eduardo Chillida’s striking modern sculpture, Peine del Viento (“Comb of the Wind”), which interacts dramatically with the crashing waves.
Food and Drink: A Gastronomic Paradise
San Sebastián is often described as the culinary capital of Spain, with more Michelin stars per capita than almost anywhere else in the world. But you don’t need fine dining to eat brilliantly here: pintxos bars and local cafés serve food of extraordinary quality.
Just some of the sweet treats on offer in one of the numerous bakeries and cafes in the city.
Pintxos (Basque Tapas)
Pintxos are small, flavour-packed bites, typically served on bread and skewered with a toothpick. A local tradition is the pintxos crawl — moving from bar to bar, sampling one or two dishes at each.
Bar Sport (Old Town): Affordable, buzzing, and offering an impressive variety of pintxos with a fun ticketing system.
Bartolo House (Old Town): A lively spot with excellent drinks and creative pintxos.
Constitución Plaza: Lined with bars and restaurants, this historic square is perfect for al fresco dining. Try Txurrut Terraza Pub, or simply wander until you find a place with the right atmosphere.
Sweet Treats & Cafés
Bassk Cheesecakers: Widely regarded as the best Basque cheesecake in town. Creamy, rich, and unforgettable.
Freshly made Basque cheesecake at Bassk.
Argitan Café (Old Town): A charming spot for morning coffee and pastries.
Zmare (Zurriola Beach): Breakfast with sea views — ideal if you want to start your day with the sound of waves.
Cultural Highlights & Activities
Buen Pastor Cathedral
A striking neo-Gothic landmark in the city centre, close to shopping streets and both beaches.
The morning light in the alleyways of the old town.
Basilica of Nuestra Señora del Coro (Old Town)
Tucked into the maze of alleyways, this ornate basilica is one of San Sebastián’s spiritual and architectural highlights. From behind the church, a trail climbs Monte Urgull, offering panoramic views across the bay and Old Town.
Basilica of Nuestra Señora del Coro.
Monte Igueldo
On the opposite side of La Concha, Monte Igueldo can be reached by a vintage funicular railway. At the summit you’ll find spectacular views of the coastline and a charming, old-fashioned amusement park.
Museums & Galleries
San Telmo Museoa: Housed in a former convent, this museum offers insights into Basque culture and history.
Aquarium Donostia: With an impressive glass tunnel through a shark-filled tank, this is a family-friendly attraction near the harbour.
Shopping
For something uniquely Basque, visit Pukas Surf Shop (Old Town). Their locally designed surfboards, apparel, and graphic t-shirts capture the city’s surf identity.
Looking out over the old town and wider San Sebastián area.
Festivals & Events
Sunset on Zurriola Beach.
San Sebastián is a city that knows how to celebrate:
Jazzaldia (July): Europe’s longest-running jazz festival, attracting world-class performers.
International Film Festival (September): One of Europe’s most prestigious film events.
Tamborrada (20th January): A lively city-wide drumming festival marking the feast of San Sebastián.
Practical Tips
Getting Around: The city is compact and best explored on foot. Cycling is also popular, with dedicated lanes along the seafront.
When to Visit: Summer is the peak season with festivals and beach life in full swing. For fewer crowds, try May–June or September–October, when the weather is still pleasant.
Accommodation: Stay in the Old Town for food and nightlife, Gros for surfing and a local vibe, or near La Concha for seaside elegance.
Some of the unique looking residence in Constitución Plaza.
Final Thoughts
San Sebastián offers a rare combination: world-class food, surf culture, historic charm, and vibrant cultural life, all within a walkable, compact city. While the city has raised concerns about over-tourism, respectful visitors who embrace the Basque culture and pace of life will find it deeply rewarding.
One of the many historic bridges connecting the different quarters of the city.
Whether you’re chasing waves, indulging in pintxos, or simply soaking up the atmosphere along the promenade, San Sebastián is a destination that lingers in the memory long after you leave.