An Alpine Gem for All Seasons
The lookout point at 3400m on the glacier.
Nestled at 1,650 metres above sea level, Les Deux Alpes is a vibrant mountain resort town in the French Alps, named after the two original mountain pastures that once occupied either side of its north-south plateau. With access to a vast network of slopes, soaring to 3,600 metres atop glacial peaks, it’s one of the few European resorts to offer summer skiing and snowboarding, often well into mid-June.
The mountains as seen from the town centre.
Skiing & Snowboarding
Les Deux Alpes boasts one of the world’s longest on-piste vertical descents, with a continuous run from the glacier down to the village. Unusually, the higher you go, the more forgiving the runs become, while the lower slopes are notably steeper and narrower — something to keep in mind when planning your descent.
The snowpark and Toura runs.
The recently upgraded Jandri Express lift takes you from town to the top of the glacier in under 30 minutes. Despite occasional queues, the large gondola cabins keep things moving steadily — just be prepared to stand for 20 minutes or so at peak times.
Mt Blanc peaking out over the cloud inversion at 3400m
A 5-day ski pass cost around €260, offering excellent value for the sheer number of runs and the breadth of the terrain. While we braved the full run back into town a couple of times, we generally opted to ride down to 2,600–3,400m and take the lift back at day’s end to avoid the bottleneck of skiers on the narrower town runs.
The steep and crowded runs back into town as seen from the Jandri lift.
Toura 1 in all its sunny glory
Best Areas on the Mountain
Toura: This area was a standout — offering fun, varied terrain, fewer crowds, and a more snowboard-friendly layout compared to some of the tighter, traverse-heavy slopes elsewhere.
Les Crêtes: Ideal for beginners or those regaining confidence. However, it can be quite exposed in windy conditions, so if it’s blowing a gale, head up to Toura for more shelter. I once got stuck on the Les Crêtes chairlift in 40mph gusts — not an experience I’d care to repeat!
The Glacier (3400m+): A true highlight. The glacier runs are wide and scenic, with incredible panoramic views — on clear days, Mont Blanc peeks through the horizon. It’s an unforgettable experience carving down high-altitude snowfields.
Vallée Blanche: Located lower than the glacier area, this section offers a quieter alternative if the main slopes get too busy. The views from La Troïka at the top are stunning, and it’s a nice place to escape the wind with a warm drink.
Les Crêtes at the top of the hill.
A pano of Les Deux Alpes town and Diable on the left of the picture.
Enjoying a peach beer at the bottom of Jandri.
Apres Ski & Dining
Les Deux Alpes is as lively off the slopes as it is on them, with a range of après-ski venues, restaurants, and bars to suit all tastes:
Pano Bar (at the bottom of Toura): Legendary for its slope-side parties and high-energy atmosphere.
Boris Bistro: A friendly, local spot with a buzzing atmosphere just down the road.
The Polar Bear Club: Popular with a younger crowd looking for a more party vibe.
Les Petits Caprices d’Emilie Paris: Excellent pastries and light bites for your morning fuel.
Crêpes à Gogo: A delicious alternative if you're not in the mood for cheese-heavy Alpine dishes — just make sure to book in advance, as it fills up fast.
Some of the great eating options in town in the mid afternoon sun.
Just outside the Jandri lift station, you’ll also find plenty of places to relax with a hot chocolate or mulled wine — both indoor and outdoor spots that offer a great way to unwind after a day on the slopes.
Accommodation
We stayed at the Chamois Lodge in the centre of town — highly recommended. Rooms were clean and modern, and the breakfast buffet was excellent. The spa and gym were free to use before 5pm (after which there’s a €20 fee), and the outdoor hot tub and ice plunge pools were absolutely perfect after a day’s riding.
The view from our room in Chamois Lodge.
Their house cocktail, ‘Le Grog’ — a spiced orange and rum drink — became my nightly tradition. The evening meals there were also excellent, offering a mix of French alpine cuisine with a creative twist.
Practical Tips
Book accommodation and dining early to avoid disappointment, particularly during school holidays or peak season.
Consider taking the lift back down at the end of the day to avoid crowded and narrow return routes.
The resort is best suited to intermediate and advanced riders, although beginners will still find some manageable runs higher up the mountain.
Don’t miss the summer mountain biking — once the snow melts, Les Deux Alpes transforms into an adrenaline-pumping downhill MTB paradise.
The town before we had two big dumps of snow during our stay.
Final Thoughts
Whether you're carving your way down glacier runs, relaxing in a bubbling spa, or dancing in ski boots at an après-ski party, Les Deux Alpes delivers a quintessential Alpine experience. It’s large enough to feel like a proper mountain town, yet compact enough to navigate easily. Affordable (if booked early), snow-sure thanks to its altitude, and packed with variety — it’s a resort that caters to thrill-seekers and laid-back cruisers alike. An affordable transfer from Grenoble didn’t break the bank and easy to sort out too so getting to the actual town is simpler than I thought it would be.
Gearing up for morning runs at 3200m from Jandri.
Highly recommended. 5 out of 5 stars.