Achensee

Pertisau and Achensee | The Austrian Fjord of the Alps by Josiah Edbrooke

Our trip to Pertisau came about by a stroke of luck really. Usually on our European breaks we make a point of visiting at least one lake or large body of water for a swim. After a fair bit of searching on Google Maps, I stumbled across Achensee and Pertisau. From the limited photos available, it looked like it would be an amazing place to stay. Impressively, the reality blew my expectations out of the water (pun absolutely intended!), and it became one of the highlights of the trip.

Looking at Pertisau from the opposite bank of Achensee

Pertisau sits within the Karwendel Alpine Park, one of the oldest cross-border protected regions in the Eastern Alps, and Lake Achensee is colloquially known as the ‘fjord of the Alps’. Having seen it in person, I can confirm the nickname is thoroughly deserved. The lake oozes alpine charm, with stunning views in every direction. On top of that, the water quality is incredibly high—almost drinking-water level—with visibility of up to ten metres below the surface.

The vibrant aqua blues of the sparingly clean Achensee.

It genuinely looked like the postcard-perfect Alps you see on brochures and adverts—practically a 1:1 match. The location really does offer something for everyone: over 500km of marked hiking trails, 250km of e-bike routes, running paths, via ferratas, and even golf courses for the more leisurely inclined. Whatever your preference, you’ll find something to enjoy—I guarantee it.

Where to stay:
We stayed at Hotel Post am See, right on the lakefront. It was on the slightly pricier side, but honestly one of the nicest hotels we’ve stayed in for pure comfort and luxury. Even though we didn’t have a lake-facing room, the views out towards the Karwendel Alps stretching across the valley were fantastic.

The view from our hotel room, picture perfect.

The hotel had numerous pools, both indoors and outdoors (including one grumpy-looking old chap permanently stationed under the fancy waterfall massage feature—how someone could look so miserable in such a lovely place I simply cannot figure out!). The best thing about Pertisau is that while there’s plenty to do, it isn’t overrun with hotels or tacky tourist clutter. Yes, the town caters to visitors, but it does so in a way that feels integrated with the landscape rather than imposed on it. To be honest, this was true of much of Tirol and Austria we saw. The Austrians clearly understand the beauty of the region they live in and look after it accordingly.

The Serene view from the Hotel Post Am See private pontoon beach.

Food & Drink:

Back to the hotel, anyway—Hotel Post am See also had a brilliant lakeside pontoon with sun loungers and a stylish bar. Being able to stroll straight out of the hotel in my swanky dressing gown to grab a drink felt like a novelty I’ve never quite experienced before. The breakfast and evening meals were excellent quality and very fairly priced. The only slightly puzzling thing was the table allocation system being based on your evening dining choices—not really an issue, just mildly amusing.

Eating out in the town was generally very good, with prices sitting in a comfortable mid-range—not as cheap as somewhere like Bilbao or San Sebastián, but still offering options. For Kaiserschmarrn, Hotel Post am See did a solid version, and we also tried Hotel Christina – Café Konditorei, where the portions were very generous. (Be sure to specify that it’s a sharing dish for two—our confusion was entirely down to our very British way of explaining things, which threw the waiter completely!)

Entner am See also did a nice traditional Austrian dinner, but it was on the more expensive side compared to other places we tried.

Some of the stunning panoramic views you can find in Pertisau.

A great place for an evening drink was Entners Seelounge. Watching the sunset over the lake with fancy cocktails was a delight—even if the soundtrack was a slightly bizarre mix of country-western and 80s pop. Perhaps that added to the charm in its own way.

Activities:

As for activities, there’s plenty of hiking and cycling. We used the free bikes from Hotel Post am See and cycled around the lake to the northern end and back. It was a very pleasant ride, suitable for most people. There are lots of e-bike rentals available, but for the lakeside loop I’d say they’re definitely not necessary. We completed the round trip in about four hours, including a coffee stop at SCHOLASTIKA – SeeMomente am Achensee (a lovely spot to take in the views).

Views of the lake on the bike ride.

We paused to admire the quaint Seehofkapelle Achenkirch on the way back, before going in for a swim in the slightly more secluded cove, which I’ve now mentally named Canoodling Cove—clearly a favourite spot for the younger crowd.

hiking up and out of the town.

On another day, we took the Karwendel-Bergbahn up the nearby mountain and hiked along the ridges around Bärenkopf before descending back into town. The route was steep in parts but not overly challenging, with plenty of gorgeous trails to explore.

Some of the interesting rock tunnels on the hike down to town.

In conclusion
Pertisau truly was a magical place to visit, and I can absolutely see why so many people are drawn to it. The charm of the town, the quality of the food, the variety of activities, and the crystal-clear alpine water make it a perfect destination for a relaxing mountain break.

The Southern end of Achensee

It’s only about an hour’s drive from Innsbruck and very accessible. Public transport is also possible, though it does require a couple of transfers. If you’re looking for that classic mountain getaway, Pertisau and Lake Achensee are easily among the best destinations in Tirol. One dip in the cold, clean water will take your breath away—both literally and figuratively.