Bilbao

Bilbao | Tasty Pinxos Places and Modern Art by Josiah Edbrooke

Bilbao, the largest city in the province of Biscay, lies in the heart of the Basque Country in northern Spain. Once an industrial port city, Bilbao has transformed into a cultural hub, known for its bold architecture, world-class cuisine, and vibrant local traditions. While its maritime and steelmaking past is still visible in parts of the city, today Bilbao is a destination where history meets modernity, and innovation blends seamlessly with tradition.

The old town in Bilbao

When to Visit

Bilbao has a temperate oceanic climate, with mild winters and warm summers.

  • Best months: April to June and September to October, when the weather is pleasant and the city is less crowded than in the peak summer months.

  • Avoiding crowds: October, when I visited, was ideal – the temperatures were comfortable, and the streets had a relaxed feel compared to July and August.

  • Festivals: If you enjoy lively celebrations, late August hosts the Aste Nagusia (Big Week Festival), a nine-day celebration filled with fireworks, concerts, and Basque cultural events.

A mixture of old and new in the old town

Getting Around

Bilbao is a very walkable city, especially within the Old Town and along the river. For longer distances, the public transport system is excellent:

  • Metro Bilbao – Designed by Norman Foster, it is sleek, efficient and connects the city with the wider metropolitan area.

  • Trams and buses – Ideal for shorter journeys.

  • Car parking – If you are driving, large underground car parks can be found near the train station (around €20 per night). Once parked, you likely won’t need your car again until you leave.

Bilbao train station in the morning light.

Accommodation

Bilbao offers a range of accommodation, from luxury hotels to budget-friendly pensions.

  • Old Town (Casco Viejo): Best for atmosphere and access to bars, cafés and pintxos spots. Expect higher prices and limited availability at short notice.

  • City centre (Ensanche & Abando): Home to more modern hotels, still within walking distance of the Old Town and Guggenheim.

  • Budget travellers: Hostels and guesthouses exist, though they fill quickly during festivals and summer months.

Wandering round the historic old town in Bilbao.

Tip: If you plan to stay in the Old Town, book early to avoid inflated last-minute prices.

Food and Drink

Eating out is a true highlight of Bilbao. The Basque Country is world-renowned for its cuisine, and the city offers everything from Michelin-starred dining to simple pintxos bars.

The theatre in the centre of town.

Pintxos Culture

Pintxos are small bites, similar to tapas but with a Basque twist, often served on bread with toothpicks. The tradition is to go “pintxos hopping” – moving from bar to bar, sampling a couple of bites and a drink at each stop.

Recommended Spots

Bar Meuelle16 – A chic cocktail bar by the river, great for sunset views and lively yet comfortable vibes.

Café Iruña – A historic and much-loved pintxos bar with beautiful Moorish-inspired décor and an extensive pintxos selection. Best visited outside peak times.

Nueva Plaza – A buzzing square in the Old Town, surrounded by cocktail bars and eateries, popular with locals. Great for an evening of grazing and people-watching.

Bilbobeer – A lively sports bar, perfect if you want to experience the passion of Athletic Bilbao supporters during a match.

Baristas Club – An excellent choice for breakfast, with yoghurt bowls, porridge, pastries, and top-quality coffee at fair prices.

Tip: Don’t order everything at once – enjoy a few pintxos in one place, then move on. This is the Basque way to eat!

Things to Do

Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

Architecture: Designed by Frank Gehry, the museum is a world-famous example of modern architecture, clad in 33,000 shimmering titanium panels. The building itself is as much a masterpiece as the art inside.

Exhibitions: Highlights include Richard Serra’s The Matter of Time – a vast steel installation that creates a dizzying labyrinth-like experience – and interactive light and mirror installations.

A Matter of Time.

One of the light installations.

Some of the art in the gallery.

Outdoors: Don’t miss Jeff Koons’ Puppy (a giant flower-covered dog sculpture) and the mist-shrouded water feature. Even if modern art isn’t your thing, the museum is unmissable.

Flower Puppy.

Interesting reflections outside the museum.

Practical info: Entry is free on Sundays, otherwise €18 for adults.

Casco Viejo (Old Town)

The cathedral in the centre of the old town.

The historic heart of Bilbao, with winding narrow streets, colourful façades, and an abundance of pintxos bars. Highlights include:

  • Plaza Nueva: A neoclassical square lined with arcades and lively bars.

  • Siete Calles (Seven Streets): The medieval core of the city, filled with independent shops and cafés.

Riverfront Walks

The regeneration of the Nervión River has given Bilbao a modern, pedestrian-friendly waterfront. A stroll from the Old Town to the Guggenheim offers excellent views of the city’s architectural contrasts.

Other Attractions

  • Mercado de la Ribera: One of Europe’s largest covered markets, offering fresh produce, pintxos stalls, and lively local atmosphere.

  • San Mamés Stadium: A must for football fans – home to Athletic Club Bilbao, a team with a rich history and one of Spain’s most passionate fan bases.

  • Mount Artxanda: Take the funicular up for sweeping views of the city and surrounding green hills.

Final Thoughts

Some of the cool looking buildings in the city.

Bilbao is an intriguing blend of tradition and modernity, making it perfect for a short city break. Its vibrant food culture, architectural landmarks, and lively atmosphere give it a unique character distinct from other Spanish cities.

While accommodation can be pricier than expected, the sheer variety of things to do – from wandering the Old Town to marvelling at the Guggenheim – makes Bilbao well worth the trip. Whether you’re a foodie, an art lover, or just looking for a charming city to explore on foot, Bilbao won’t disappoint.

Cheers, and happy travels!